My advice would be to remove everything you can from the MP7, take off the stock and the sights, remove the flash hider and take out the mag… Anything that isn’t inside the MP7 will only get in the way. So 15/20 minutes, but remember it’s not about speed… Accuracy is what counts so make sure you take your time and get it right, you’ll only get one shot. The job itself only takes about 5 minutes, the prep takes about another 10. With the tools and parts taken care of, all you need is a clear workspace and a bit of uninterrupted time. So what do you need to turn the Marui MP7 from its stock A1 format to a railed A2? I’d suggest the following as a bare minimum: There are many people who sing the praises of the VFC GBBR but I never got along with mine, the AEG version has certainly got its appeal but at the price point it’s at… I’ll keep the TM. I have to say that the VFC felt absolutely amazing, it’s just a massive shame the performance wasn’t on par with my expectations. To paraphrase Dave of Maple Leaf Tactical “What I wouldn’t give for a properly sized TM MP7 with a recoil engine in it!”
Now this alone might have just been passed off as someone else’s opinion but having had experience of a railed “Navy” MP7A2 in the form of my old VFC GBB, I remembered how much I actually missed that Magpul RVG on the front.Īdd that to a little bit of human nature, always wanting to be a little different… It’s not a modification you see all the time, certainly not on a TM. However, after posting a picture of my MP7 in all its glory on IG I received a comment from that made me take a second look at it. I’ll be the first to admit I’m easily talked into something, a few weeks ago I’d have sworn that I’d never be cutting the front end off my MP7. The second part is to use the best tool you have for any given job, that’s especially true with Tokyo Marui replicas… Selecting an incorrect screwdriver could result in a stripped bolt head or worse… A stripped thread in the (often) plastic receiver. If you understand and know the job down to the last detail, it’ll eliminate most of the risk. Never underestimate or half arse a job, it’ll cost you much more than the time and money you were trying to save.Īs with much in life, preparation is key to any modification. All have their own potential dangers, some are as small as adding a few cosmetic scratches and some are potentially very expensive… A replacement receiver for a TM MP7 is going to cost you a lot of money, and that’s assuming you can even get one at that point in time. If someone picks a vehicle that you want to use before you, then it's good to have another class vehicle ready for you to work on as back up.The truth is that any work you carry out on your replicas has a degree of risk involved, from swapping out a hop rubber to a non-reversible job such as the one we’re about to walk through.
The best thing you can do is to decide on one vehicle from each class you like to use (from the auto rotation), or you look the look of (from seeing other people use them or the description of the what each vehicle does, which you can view in game on the store), or buy it from the store with fame and stick with using that vehicle until you reach the wins needed. You can buy the metal pass and you get a lot more fame and rewards, you can also buy boosters to get xp faster, but if you don't want pay for anything then obviously it will take you longer. The best way to earn fame is by completing missions within a season to collect the in season rewards, otherwise it is quite hard to get fame, you don't get much from matches.
A select number of vehicles are auto rotated weekly when the missions are reset, so you won't be able to use them all the time, the other thing to note is that only one person can use a particular vehicle per team. Unless you have unlocked the vehicle with fame you will not have permanent access to the vehicle. To get this achievement you will need to win 22 matches with one vehicle to reach level 5 within that role.
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